Morocco Day 8

 The final day of the tour arrived, and after breakfast we hit the road for Marrakech. It’s a 4 hour journey through the Atlas Mountains, climbing to about 2000 km. We could see snow on the tops, even from the drive in the valley from the previous day. We took the only major road from Marrakech to the other side of the mountains. The road is newly renovated and is quite smooth. Lots of villages along the road were severely affected by the earthquake in 2023. 2900 people died in the quake, and even more lost their homes. Some money from the government came to people to rebuild their homes, but a lot was withheld. Some Berber people who travel through these villages have helped the permanent residents rebuild.

At a rest stop

Another rest stop

 As we continued to drive, we made lots of stops along the winding road at view points. Another stop we made was at one of the oldest villages in the mountain. The rivers from the snow melt turn the valleys bright green, giving a strong to contrast to the grey brown rocky mountain. 

an example of the winding road. This road was recenlty improved, and is the only major road connecting east and west Morocco.  

very green

locals washing thier clothes

As we descended into the west side of the mountain range, the rocks and dirt turned more red. Lush green plants, yellow and white flowers, olive trees and palm trees started taking over the land. Sheep and goats sprinkled through the field, accompanied with the herder, munching away to their hearts content. The rains from this year have really given life to the land, and I felt very luck to be here at such a rich time of the year. 

Its so pretty!

all the flowers

After arriving in Marrakech, we stopped just outside the Medina, or old town. It was originally built in the 11th century and still remains the city center. Of course the surrounding new town was built more recently, mainly by the French. We walked through the big open square full of people. We were told it was even more full in the months where locals weren’t fasting. We passed carts full of fruit with people selling juice, horses attached to carts for rides in the city, women selling henna tattoos, men with sunglasses, snake charmers, and monkeys. Hicham told us that it was best to not take pictures of the animals, as most of them are abused and living conditions are poor. It was best to avoid even looking at them. Giving any sort of attention to the men in charge of the animals encourages them to continue their bad habits, and ultimately the animals are the ones suffering. We hurried past these vendors to our lunch spot. 

View of the main square frim the restaurant

After a quick bite to eat we met up with Hicham and our guide for a small tour of parts of the Medina and sooks, or markets. Some of the alleyways were similar to Fez’s Medina, with the big exceptions being its size and that motercycles and small cars are allowed through parts of it. There are over 62,000 shops here, making it the biggest in Africa. We explored only a small part. The doors were a main similarity though. There are two doors, the smaller one is set into the larger one, and is used for family and airflow in the summer. The larger door is for guests and the knocker on it makes a different sound so that the women of the house know to cover up before answering. The entrances are usually very plain and unassuming but the inside is beautiful, usually with mosaics, a fountain center, lots of plants and an open air courtyard. This system relates to Islamic religion and staying humble with your wealth. 

an unassuming door

The archways indicate that you are entering a new neighborhood

2 doors

We stopped at a few places, looking at old fountains or walkways, or shops. The fountains were particularly interesting to me. Marrakech was not built on a river like most historic cities. They got their water from the mountain runoff, and using an extensive irrigation system brought water the fountain for people to use. Now most of the fountains are locked and closed off, and people get their water through more modern plumbing. 

We stopped at one ethical Moroccan beauty shop. We were welcomed into a large room with oils, saves, teas and spices lining the wall. A kind gentleman offered us tea, a special blend from the shop. We went over all the products, taking samples and smelling everything. Some of the specialty items are argon oil, prickly pear seed oil, roller perfumes, and soaps. Argon oil is used in beauty products for both skin and hair, and they had lots of scents. The prickly pear oil also moisturizes skin, but Hicham called it natural Botox. It helps clear skin, firm skin, and decrease scaring, darks circles, and blemishes. The roller perfumes as classic sents like lavender and mint, but also more Morocco specific ones like orange blossom and 1000 flowers. The argon oil and soap had the same sents as well. There was also a combination of ingredients that made a great product for clearing sinuses. It is used to help prevent and resolve colds and allergies. We all got our hands on some of these products, making sure everything was in small sizes for carryon luggage. They also have a website and ship internationally of anyone if interested in purchasing. Of course, best prices will be in the store. We also all got some free soaps and lipsticks for making so many purchases. 

inside the barty shop

thier special tea blend

This women is grinding argon nuts for oil

After most of our tour group leaving with a product in hand, we continued onward in our tour, stopping by a wood worker, passing the metal smiths, and pushing through the touristy souvenir section before arriving at the end. We said goodbye to our guide before being released for an hour to explore the area in our own. As soon as we reentered the sooks, I felt a hand bush past my hip. It startled me. People had gotten close to me here, but no one had touched me more than at the shoulder. At first I thought the man who did it was trying to feel my bum. I had seen him just seconds earlier behind us with another man, and after he passed, he looked behind and a little past me at the other man he was with when I first saw him. It then clicked for me, that it wasn’t my bum he was feeling for, by maybe a wallet or phone instead. The man who touched me made quick eye contact with me and I of course made a face at him, and he hurried his pace and quickly disappeared into the crowd. My hand was in my pocket by then, tightly gripping my phone. Our group of 4 also quickened our pace, and the second man trailed us for a little before dropping behind. I still can’t decide if they were looking for things already in my pocket or to see if I distracted and would feel the touch. Before he touched me I was looking at my phone and maps to mark the restauant we would rondevou with our group at. Regardless of his intentions, it was the first time in my traveling experience that I had experienced this sort of operation. It could have happened anywhere in the world, and often does in Paris or London. It’s a good reminder to always be aware of what’s happening around you and to be alert, especially in high tourist areas where people tend to gather such as the entrance to the sooks. My phone stayed in my pocket for the rest of our market time with my hand wrapped tightly around it.

 I practiced my haggling a little, and while I didn’t buy anything I did get two places to meet my price. We had seen a spot for engraved bracelets that I really liked, but most of the shopping selling them didn’t seem to have the quality I had seen online. Online it said that this particular shop had a fixed price of 10 euros. We didn’t think we could get it in time as there was a decent line and we only had 40 minutes left by then. We decided to price check other places. One shop just down the road offered me 35 euros instead! I said how about 15, and we went back and forth a little, I still held my ground. I got the eyes from Stacy saying we should keep moving as the market was getting busier by the minute, and I thanked the man and took off the bracelet. He immediately dropped his offer from 25 to 18. I said no thank you making sure not to shake his hand and joined the others. As we walked away I heard him call out “Miss, 15! 15!” But by then it was too late. I wasn’t satisfied with the quality either, and wasn’t about to pay more for something that was worse. 

We wandered into the metal working area, were a lot less shoppers congregated. This was for sure a spot where more locals spent their time. We stepped if a man cutting some metal, by welders and metal pounders before coming back to the main ally. It was really overwhelming by then, the noise of all the people, sounds of motorbikes and yelling as people tried to get past. People pushing past just to stop and look outside a shop right in front of us. We all looked at each other, kind of saying ‘what’s the time, maybe we should get out of here’. On our way out I found another bracelet shop. This one quoted me 10 euros this time. I asked him for 5 instead of he said 8 would be better. 

"Hmmm I don’t know" I said. "I think that’s a bit much for me. I can only do 5." 

“8 is a great deal madam. What is your name? We can put it on right now.” He responded. Stacy looked at me, mouthing that we only had 10 minutes left in the sooks. Tracey and Brendan both looked tired and ready to leave. 

“Hmmm, no thanks.” I said, taking off the bracelet and handing it back. He asked why, repeating that is was such a good deal. “I have to go, I’m meeting a group. We will be late if I wait.” 

“No madam! We are very fast. 2 minutes! Just two minutes!”

I replied with no thanks again, and as we walked away I heard him call out “Madam wait!! I can do 5!!” 

I had been too overwhelmed by then to check the quality of the bracelets, otherwise I might have taken him up on the deal. But considering how close we were to the entrance and the other things in the shop, it was probably still overpriced at 5 euros.

 I did surprise myself with my haggling, I expected myself to crack and just pay the asking price. It wasn’t as scary as I expected it to be. I don’t like people pressuring me to do things, or feeling like I’m insulting someone. But it seems like the people have a little bit of fun with it, and learning the power of walking away really helped with my confidence. Of course some shops in the Medina are not ones to be barging with, such as unique items or high quality artists. Still, I was proud of my attempts and the results they gave way. While the main square was still loud with voices, music and motercycles, it was nice to get some air. We could get some space between us finally and really take a breath. 

inside the souks

the roof keeps out some of the heat but still maintains air flow. 

We passed more fruit stands on the way to the meeting point. We didn’t have to wait long before Hicham, our fearless leader, walked us back to our van and driver. We stopped by an ATM, then at the hotel. We said goodbye to our driver, then grabbed our keys and dropped off luggage to our rooms. We had an hour and a half to kill so Brendan, Tracey, and I took a short walk around the new town around our hotel. Shortly after Brendan and I got a drink at the restaurant we would be having our farewell dinner at. A higher class hotel restaurant, the food was very delicious. Hicham made his rounds to different members of the group, making final connections with each of us. At the very end he gave a very lovely speech, and presented all of us with a personalized bookmark. It had our name both in English and in Arabic as well as a small picture. It was very sweet of him. He led us back to the hotel wishing us good travels. The four of us quickly went to be to get some rest before our early day in the morning. 

Wishing for the best on your advendures, 

Cienna